Croatia

One Month in Split, Croatia

Split, Croatia: An unbelievable coastal town, built from limestone on the Adriatic Sea, rich in history that locals can talk about forever.

The goal for my month in Split was to blend in with the locals, so establishing a routine was essential. I visited the Green Market daily, wore only neutral colors (never shorts), and managed to befriend the barista at my favorite coffee shop.

Safety and Navigation

As a single woman, Split is noticeably safe. Locals explained they have less than 5 crimes per month. It is easy to navigate, and transportation is simple. There are plenty of sidewalks, bike lanes, buses, and Ubers. Locals also suggest walking to the ferry terminal, paying a few euros for a ticket, and taking the ferry to a nearby island.

Exploring Beyond Split

When given the chance, I took day or weekend trips to explore nearby areas and meet new people. One of my favorite adventures was a weekend trip to Bosnia & Herzegovina: A three-hour van ride across the border to explore a country I would have never otherwise visited.

Hollywood has even used Croatia’s stunning landscape to film Game of Thrones. In Split, The basement of Diocletian’s Palace was used as the filming location where Daenerys kept her dragons. Most famously, Dubrovnik is known as the setting for King’s Landing, the capital city of Westeros. You will see Game of Thrones merchandise throughout the country. 

Farm-to-Table Living

It’s safe to say Croatians live a farm-to-table lifestyle. The grocery stores are small, maybe the size of a gas station convenience store in the US, and only reliable for pantry staples. It’s more popular to shop daily for fresh ingredients.

The neighborhood Green Market is a community hot spot where many locals spend their day as both vendors and shoppers. People gather fresh ingredients and gossip with their neighbors. Some vendors sell clothes while others sell fruits and vegetables, nuts, and flowers. There are even small meat shops with animal carcasses hanging proudly outside. My favorite market purchase was locally made yarn – The woman even sold me her personal crochet needle. 

The “Pomalo” Lifestyle

Croatians view the hustle-and-bustle lifestyle as “uncool” and prefer a more laid-back approach. They live by the phrase “pomalo,” which literally translates to “slow” or “slowly.” 

Local tip: Expect to spend 2-3 hours dining out. Waiters at restaurants will disappear for hours to allow space and privacy for socialization. It’s refreshing until you’re ready to leave but find yourself awkwardly searching for the bill.

Final Thoughts

Overall, life in Croatia feels healthy. People seem noticeably happier, and even the family dogs are well-behaved (it’s common for pets to walk off-leash with their owners). I’m not sure if it’s the coastal living, farm-to-table eating, or “pomalo” lifestyle, but Croatian people are undoubtedly mastering the healthy Mediterranean lifestyle.